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2017年11月26日星期日

For the Ladies: Malte Tourbillon Openworked

The Malte collection from Vacheron Constantin with its emblematic barrel shape gets two new members. The pink gold creations are joining this collection epitomising a blend of distinctive presence and understatement. This interpretation of the Malte Tourbillon Openworked reveals its airy geometry playing with light and shade.
In 2014, Vacheron Constantin created Caliber 2780 SQ – a barrel-shaped caliber that was also skeletonised – beating at the heart of a Malte Tourbillon Openworked in a platinum case. The collection is now joined by a Malte Tourbillon Openworked model with a pink gold case.



Firmly rooted in the Vacheron Constantin aesthetic heritage since 1912, the tonneau shape is interpreted in the Malte collection through a range of creations. These models feature a distinctively curved design, contemporary lines and an understated display. This curved case middle perfectly moulding the shape of the wrist symbolises the Malte collection and its two new references. It measures 38 x 48,2 mm and is water-resistant up to 3 bar.
Inside the case lays an entirely openworked and hand-engraved barrel-shaped tourbillon movement. Alternating shadow and light effects enable the Vacheron Constantin Caliber 2790 SQ to reveal an original architectural decor playing with geometrical shapes. The hand-engraved three-dimensional mosaic is enhanced by a Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon.
Around 540 hours of workmanship (from the development of the caliber to the manual finishing of each of its 246 components) are required to achieve the balance between a tourbillon mechanism and the openworked aesthetic.

Coated in pink gold, this mechanism powering indications of the hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve, appears through a transparent sapphire dial rimmed by a silver-toned ring and punctuated by 11 baton-type hour-markers as well as an applied Roman (XII) numeral in pink gold.

The curved shape and the inherent style of this watch is complemented by an alligator leather brown strap secured by a folding clasp.

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2017年11月25日星期六

Stowa Antea 390 Day-Date

Stowa é uma empresa alemã com uma grande tradição na produção de relógios. Ao contrário de outros concorrentes de origem germânica, a Stowa pode orgulhar-se de nunca ter deixado de produzir – ou seja, não é uma marca caída no esquecimento e repescada recentemente por terceiros.

Pelo contrário, foi uma das poucas empresas a criar relógios para os pilotos e navegadores da força aérea alemã durante a II Guerra Mundial. E, nos anos 90, a Stowa foi a segunda marca – logo a seguir à conceituada IWC – a retomar a produção de peças inspiradas pela sua herança aeronáutica.

No entanto, o relógio que trago aqui hoje não pertence a essa linhagem, mas à linha clássica Antea, neste caso numa execução com dia e data (existe também o mesmo relógio simples, com três ponteiros).

Trata-se de um dress watch ao melhor estilo Bahaus, desenhado por Jörg Schauer. com complicação de dia e data às 6 horas, baseado num mecanismo ETA 2836-2. A execução inclui caixa em aço com mostrador de 39mm de diâmetro e vidro de safira não apenas no mostrador como atrás, para exibição do mecanismo. O preço é de 587 euros, a partir do site do fabricante.

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2017年11月24日星期五

Casio EFR-502D-7AV


A Casio pode ser mais conhecida pelos seus relógios à prova de tudo ou pela sua linha fashion mais virada para um público feminino, mas é a gama Edifice que é mais do meu agrado, com peças que são puras “B3”.
É o caso desde modelo, com a referência EFR-502D-7AV, um cronógrafo extremamente completo, com complicação de dia e data às 3H00 e tacómetro. O preço ronda os 120 euros online (encontra-se na Amazon UK por menos de 100 libras), o que é excelente para o que aqui é oferecido.
A caixa em aço tem um diâmetro de 44,4mm, bracelete em aço inoxidável e fecho tipo dupla dobradiça. O vidro do mostrador é mineral e a coroa é de rosca, o que garante uma resistência à água de 10 atmosferas (100 metros), valor relativamente elevado para um relógio deste preço. Não é um relógio que eu arriscasse a levar para dentro de água, mas significa pelo menos que possui características todo-o-terreno e que é uma peça resistente.
Existem mais quatro versões deste relógio, com a mesma execução mas mostradores em preto.

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2017年11月20日星期一

Sturmanskie Ocean Stingray



A Sturmanskie acaba de lançar em Portugal o Ocean Stingray, resistente a pressões de até 30 atmosferas, ou seja, 300 metros de profundidade.
A marca russa – a primeira a viajar até ao espaço, no pulso do primeiro cosmonauta, Yuri Gagarine – diz que se propôs "criar um relógio capaz de ser usado nas situações mais extremas mas que, ao mesmo tempo, pudesse ser uma peça de utilização no dia-a-dia", razão pela qual "todas as decisões de engenharia tomadas na conceção do Ocean Stingray foram coordenadas com os aspetos práticos da utilização do relógio e, claro, desenhadas de forma a criar um modelo esteticamente apelativo."


O resultado final agrada-me bastante, com uma estética "brutalista" a lembrar a dos relógios dos submarinos soviéticos dos anos 70, com pormenores como a coroa protegida e, nalguns modelos, duas barras de aço verticais a protegerem o mostrador.

O relógios é baseado num movimento automático Seiko NH35A com data e possibilidade de corda manual e paragem de segundos. A caixa em aço escovado tem 46 mm e o bisel unidirecional em PVD preto lacado é ligeiramente maior, com 47,5mm.

Os ponteiros, numerais e índices possuem tratamento com Superluminova para visibilidade no escuro, o mesmo acontecendo com seis pontos (nas posições horárias pares) no bisel rotativo. Todos os Sturmanskie Ocean Stingray são vendidos numa caixa exclusiva que inclui duas braceletes (pele genuína e borracha de silicone) bem com uma ferramenta para a sua substituição.
Estes relógios estarão disponíveis em Portugal a partir do final de Fevereiro através da rede de agentes da Sociedade de RelojoariaIndependente. O PVP sugerido é de 735 euros para qualquer das variantes.

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Helgray Hornet Bandit



die kanadische Helgray ist ein weiterer micromarcas Sie Marktanteil der Schweizer Uhrenindustrie zu essen, unter Berufung auf Kenner für eine Qualität Uhr, geben Bedeutung für die Bewegung , die in der Box und sind besorgt über die Spezifikationen und Ästhetik , mit wenig Interesse an der Zahlung für das Privileg Swiss Made (ein Thema, das ich in einem anderen Beitrag kurz ansprechen werde).

In diesem speziellen Fall wurde das Unternehmen 2014 unabhängig von einer erfolgreichen Crowdfunding- Kampagne gegründet und verkauft ausschließlich online direkt an die Öffentlichkeit.

Die Ästhetik dieses Modells - und die Funktionalität einer zweiten Zeitzone durch eine rotierende innere Lünette - ähnelt stark dem Bulova Accutron II . Die Uhr hat jedoch ihre eigene Persönlichkeit und Ästhetik, wie die kleine Sekundenanzeige um 7:00 Uhr und die Haupthände mit einer Originalform von hervorragender Wirkung.

Die Box, in Stahl, 42 mm im Durchmesser (ein Format , das wurde verwendet , um mein „sweet spot“ Personal zu betrachten), es ist beständig bis 10 Atmosphären (100 m) und das gewählten Quarzwerk ist eine zuverlässige Miyota 1L45 . Die Wahl des Quarz ist etwas enttäuschend, aber der Rest des Laufs, die beinhalten dial macht eine attraktive Reihe mit Saphirglas und die vorher erwähnten Innenlünette (bei 2h00 durch eine spezifische crown befohlenen).

Der Preis von 299 Dollar scheint mir mehr als gerecht zu sein, was Helgray uns vorschlägt. Es gibt, mit dem gleichen Wert, eine Variante namens Fighter mit braunem Lederband und Gehäuse aus gebürstetem Stahl.

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2017年11月18日星期六

A simple praise for vintage watches.

Vintage watches provide a lot of allure for little money. Of course a little amount of money is relative, but consider that the average new luxury watch purchase is somewhere between 5k to 10k. This is mostly for simple time and date only stainless steel watches, a lot of the time lacking any character or uniqueness. There is something for everyone in the vintage selection. With this post I simply wish to convey my admiration for vintage watches. There have been plenty of articles written about their appeal, but simply the following is why I like them and you can decide for yourself if you do too.
The best thing about vintage watches, hands down is their price point. You can get watches for a few hundred dollars all the way up in to the hundreds of thousands and they will all be worth their true amount. There are no marketing dollars behind them, they have already experienced either their depreciation or appreciation and simply represent fashionable function with a touch of craftsmanship and heritage built right in. I do not look at vintage watches as assets or investments. I do not buy them with concern for their value. This allows myself and many other fans of vintage pieces to procure a more enjoyable timepiece. You might ask, how this is possible. Imagine if you could purchase or have anything based simply on your desire to have it. What would you choose, the possibilities are endless? Most likely you will end up with whatever makes you most happy. This is how the world of vintage works. Buy first on looks and quality. I do not get hung up on name brands or making sure that the watch is in perfect original mint condition as I would with a new watch. This allows me to be free of any cachet attached to the watch.
Another thing that I truly enjoy about vintage watches is that most likely you will never see the same watch in the wild as yours. This uniqueness makes the watch even more special to me. Most people consider vintage watches to be those made between the 40s and 70s. This opens up a truly original time of design. Watch companies were producing some of the coolest pieces that they have ever produced during these times. More toward the 40s and 50s you could get watches that were fairly simple, but that might have huge tear drop lugs like the back wings on a Cadillac of similar times. If like me you are a classicist, focus on the late 50s and 60s. Most of the pieces are very conservative and simply well made. If you are a bit more adventurous consider the 70s, designs of the time were near alien like. No matter which you choose including those made before and after the ages above, I can assure you that the watches will age in a more graceful manner than we will.
For whatever your reason or lifestyle, I encourage you to pick up a vintage piece. They are still popular because they look fresh and have been designed to last many lifetimes with occasional servicing. I feel that my vintage Omega is one of my most versatile pieces. I feel just as at home on the golf course with it as I do in a formal suit or bumming around the house. It was my second least expensive purchase and probably receives the most compliments. The freedom and enjoyment that comes with a vintage piece is not able to be bought new. Like a fine wine or friendship, vintage watches become better with age.
Probably one of coolest reasons in my opinion to own a vintage watch is because you must go on the hunt for them. You don’t go down to the mall and stand in line with all the kids waiting for a Justin Bieber autograph session or the newest iphone release. You must take part on a journey. Vintage watches are found in small boutiques, hidden gems of a city. They are found at the bottom of random boxes at antique shows and flea markets. If you are lucky, they can be found on the wrist of an elder relative. Some vintage watches might also come engraved with a date or name that might possibly tell of another journey it had in a previous life. Because you never know where or when you will find one, I like vintage most for this reason. A few recommendations worth going on a journey for would be anything from the houses of Omega, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Longines, and IWC. If you are a cold blooded American, Hamilton might warm you up a bit.

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2017年11月17日星期五

Die perfekte Frühlingsuhr, meine Damen.

Im Jahr 1964 bemerkte Bob Dylan bekanntlich, dass die Zeiten, in denen sie sich verändern, eine weniger visionäre Aussage sind, wenn man bedenkt, dass 20 Jahre zuvor Rolex eine Uhr mit einem sich selbst verändernden Datum erfand. Allerdings kann man das Datejust durchaus als Rahmen nutzen, um sich verändernde Trends in der Zeitmesser-Mode über die Jahre hinweg zu betrachten. Denn seit seiner Gründung im Jahr 1945 ist die Datejust ein fester Bestandteil des Luxusuhrenmarktes und das erste, an das sich viele bei der Einführung in die Marke gewandt haben.


Sie brauchen keinen Wettermann, um zu sehen, dass diese Uhr wunderschön ist.

Im Jahr 1945 galt eine 36-mm-Uhr als großes männliches Stück und setzte sich jahrzehntelang fort. Heute erleben wir eine Trendwende, da Männer und Frauen nach größeren, mutigeren und auffälligeren Uhren suchen. Da kommt dieses schöne Stück ins Spiel. Mit einem wunderschönen rosa Blumenmuster und einer Lünette mit Rolex-Fabrikdiamanten (52 um genau zu sein!) Ist es Rolex unmöglich, sich diese Features vor 10 Jahren auf einem 36mm Datejust vorzustellen. Aber wenn Sie eine Frau sind, die nach einer großen, auffälligen Uhr sucht, ohne etwas zu tragen, das aussieht, als ob sie auf einen Panzer gehört, haben Sie Glück. Dies sind die sich wandelnden Zeiten, in denen wir leben, und SIE könnten der Nutznießer sein! Was für eine Zeit zum Leben!

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2017年11月9日星期四

Retail Jeweler on a Remote Island Brings Together Watch History and Hollywood



Thanks to a jeweler on the tiny island of Gozo, off the coast of Malta in the Mediterranean Sea, a British tabloid got all the clues it needed to break the story last week of Angelina Jolie’s very special $4 million wedding gift to Brad Pitt.

In fact, The Mirror reported that the jeweler was asked by a friend of the super couple to inscribe the back of a rare 1952 Patek Philippe platinum chronometer with the phrase, “To Roly from Nessa.” These just happen to be the names of the characters Pitt and Jolie play in their new movie, By the Sea, which they are currently filming on the picturesque island of Gozo.

“I did inscribe the watch. It was for Brad, and it was a rare one,” George Farrugia of Dolindo Jewellers told The Mirror. “It was very valuable.”



Farrugia’s assessment of “very valuable” may be just a bit of an understatement. An investigation proved that back in November 2012, a platinum 1952 Patek Philippe J.B. Champion Platinum Observatory Chronometer with a diamond-set minute-track on the dial was the top lot in a Christie’s Geneva auction, fetching a staggering $3.99 million. Some believe that Jolie’s wedding gift to Pitt is that watch.

The 1952 Reference 2458 watch with an Observatory grade movement is one of only two Patek Philippe wristwatches with Observatory grade movements — of which only 20 were ever assembled. Only one version, however, was made with a platinum case. For this watch, Champion — a celebrated lawyer in his time — had his name etched directly onto the dial. The watch was one of many he collected.



Engraving the case back of this $4 million watch did not faze the jeweler, Farrugia. “I wasn’t nervous about the inscription because I knew I could do the work perfectly,” he told The Mirror.

Pitt and Jolie were married in France last month after nine years of dating. The Hollywood couple, sometimes known by the combined name “Brangelina,” is said to have a combined wealth of $400 million. With that wealth, the marriage of history and Hollywood commands just a small portion.

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2017年11月8日星期三

Two-Inch Canvas: Presenting the Watch Dial as Art



Over the past decade, the watch industry has witnessed incredible growth in the concept of presenting the dial as art. A canvas of sorts, this space — tinier than two inches in diameter — has become a home for artists to reinterpret techniques and timeless themes.

Much of this is not new, but rather is a new interpretation of old techniques and arts, such as hand painting, sculpting, gold working, straw weaving and mosaics. In an article on a Swiss watch website, veteran watch journalist Roberta Naas said, "If we lived in the age of the Renaissance, many a timepiece dial would hang on the walls of the Louvre."



This may well be true. Top watch brands (and the artisans they work with) are vying to find the most creative mediums to transform the watch dial into a work of art — a rare and poignant rendition of geometrics, florals, animals and other scenes that steal our hearts.

Indeed, it seems that as more brands explore the unexplored and as more brands look to the past for visionary inspiration, we will see incredible newness in this nearly 500-year-old mechanical watch world. Check back in the coming days as we bring you a look at some of the stunning dials on timepieces we carry in our store.


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2017年11月5日星期日

Here's a Pre-Halloween Review of Skeleton Watches



Halloween is around the corner and that makes this the perfect time to talk about skeletons. Well, not the kind we usually think of at Halloween, but the kind we think of when we think luxury timepieces: Skeleton watches. Referred to as skeletons or skeletonized watches, these timepieces are intricate and alluring because the majority of the metal movement parts have been cut away and sculpted to offer open-worked magnificence.



To create a skeletonized watch, skilled master artisans and watchmakers spend hours upon hours slimming pieces to their tiniest possible size so that only the minimum metal is visible. Sometimes the skeletonizing — the act of paring away the metal and then finely finishing it — can take several weeks to a month. It is also a fine balancing act, because as the metal is removed, the strength of the material can be compromised, affecting the integrity of the watch. The perfect skeleton is bare bones, but still generates maximum efficiency and precision.



Generally, once a movement has been fully finished, it is cased between a sapphire crystal and sapphire case back, enabling stunning see-through visibility of the beautiful work of art. While many brands offer top-notch skeleton watches, Cartier — a brand we are proud to carry — is a master at this art. We invite you to stop in any time and take a look at the masterful work inherent in a skeleton watch.

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2017年11月4日星期六

Panerai – one other name for excellence

Officine Panerai model of watches have been one of the most reliable along with the best watches produced actually. It is one of the premium watch brand businesses that have been admired by large populace all over the world. Thus made beneath the model of Officine Panerai have become the tag of stunning craftsmanship of the companies these watches. The arms of personalities and celebrities around the globe happen to be adorned by Panerai watches for a long-time today.

Panerai’s reputation has been increasing as well as the surge is also large in past years through the entire globe. The reason for this can be that the watches using this brand possess the designs from Italy and also the engineering from Switzerland’s supreme combination. The high quality expectations were put in place by the creators of the world famous watch creators of Panerai which goes for the occasion of 1860`s. From then it has been, to date, has been a trip filled up with achievements and problems.
The president Guido Panerai has established the initial watchmaker`s shop in Florence having a workshop attached to the store rendering it more easy for the watch to go back for almost any maintenance’s entrepreneurs. The Panerai watches contains the situations designed and manufactured by the watch’s motion made by the great Swiss producers as well as this Italian giant.

The demand for these watches is also because of the cause that the watches thus manufactured sometimes participate in features party that is minimal or special. This helps the organization to keep the need. This also is the reason the commanding prices over their items. Officine Panerai also plays a role in its national protection by providing one of the most precise and appropriate watches and devices to the Regia Karen (the Noble Italian Navy). Their affiliation using the navy has aided the attributes of the offer. The navy got the world’s best and instruments that were exact and Panerai got celebrity and the name for his or her diving gear just like the compasses along with the range indicators.

Panerai also contacted the true luxury watch Rolex for his or her help to complete the diving watch required from the Frogmen to manufacturer. As a result of the tieup the flagship engineering of luminescence and final watertight instances came into existence. As their variety by all consideration does not extend 1000 Panerai watches thus manufactured’s total quantity is unthinkable. Several designs while in the lineup with this maker get below.

Luminor
Radiomir
• Panerai Chronographs
• And additional

Panerai in addition has combined with Ferrari, an arrangement in which the Ferrari logo will undoubtedly be exhibited by the watches distributed, made and designed. The brand for this assortment was Ferrari engineered by Panerai. This settlement ended this season and was not renewed from the company. When comparing to different types of this fine company the Ferrari engineered by Panerai did not lead to estimated money this bring about the separation of this mix.

Panerai has every one of the watches one could want be it a retro-style, a cool or anyother premium watches ought to be the first choice.

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2017年11月2日星期四

'uomo Moschus Gold Quarzuhr

Die heutige Uhr ist verwirrend ...
Die Uhr ist von einer Marke namens L'Uomo Musk, die im Grunde zu Man Musk übersetzt. Ich habe gebloggt Uhren von einer Marke namens Musk vor, die sehr robust und Qualität Gefühl mit einem hohen rrp waren, während diese L'uomo Musk Uhr ist leichter und billigeres Gefühl, so anfänglich dachte ich, dass es keine Verbindung geben würde. Aber, es gibt ein Logo auf der Uhr, das die männlichen und weiblichen Symbole verflochten ist, aber mit dem Pfeil für das männliche Symbol, das gerade oben zeigt, der das selbe wie auf den Musk-Uhren ist. Also, es scheint, sie sind verlinkt, oder man ist eine Kopie des anderen ...

Die Marke L'uomo Musk ist in Japan (und möglicherweise in Thailand) aktiv und produziert Uhren, Handtaschen, Taschentücher und Feuerzeuge. Es gibt einen Link, der andeutet, dass die Marke im Besitz einer Firma namens Okazaki ist, die 1967 gegründet wurde. Diese Firma hat die gleichen Produkte und verwendet einen ausländischen Partner für die Herstellung, der zu diesem Produkt passt.

Die Uhr selbst ist ein Standard-3-Zeiger-Design mit einem Quarzwerk. Es hat ein goldfarbenes Gehäuse mit großen Flächen über und unter dem Zifferblatt, wo das Logo in das Gehäuse eingeformt ist. Das Zifferblatt hat keine Zahlen, nur Stundenmarkierungen, und der Name L'uomo Musk ist darüber gedruckt. Das Armband ist aus schwarzem Leder, scheint aber ein Ersatz zu sein. Es gibt keine weiteren Informationen auf der Uhr, da die Rückseite komplett leer ist (was anders ist als bei den Musk-Uhren).

Ich weiß nicht, wann die Uhr kommt, aber die L'ouomo Musk-Artikel scheinen erst kürzlich online erschienen zu sein. Ich schätze, das ist ein 2010er Modell (könnte aber 2000er sein).



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2017年11月1日星期三

Super Lovers schwimmendes Zifferblatt

Es tut mir leid, es ist schon eine Weile her, seit meinem letzten Blog, also ich zu Hause einige von euch da draußen noch folgen! Ich habe vor, wieder ein bisschen mehr zu bloggen, aber ich glaube nicht, dass es wieder zu täglichen Updates kommen wird.

Für die heutige Uhr trage ich etwas, das das Geheimnis der verknüpften Designs noch weiter ausdehnt. Regelmäßige Leser erinnern sich vielleicht daran, dass ich verschiedene japanische Uhrenmarken verfolgt habe, die durch gängige Designs miteinander verbunden zu sein scheinen. Uhren von Deadman, Module, Deep, etc. scheinen ihre eigenen Versionen der gleichen Uhr über verschiedene Zeiträume produziert zu haben.

Bis heute schien die Marke Super Lovers von dieser Gruppe getrennt zu sein, aber diese Uhr hat eine bemerkenswerte Ähnlichkeit mit dem Deadman Live Wire, den ich letztes Jahr veröffentlichte. Da ich eine Ahnung habe, dass die Super Lovers-Markenkommission von einer Vielzahl von Herstellern sieht, denke ich, dass es nicht unerwartet sein sollte, dass sie jedoch mit etwas Ähnlichem endeten!

Die Marke Super Lovers stammt aus dem Stadtteil Harajuku in Tokio und ist bekannt für ihre Mischung aus Punk, Clubbing und niedlichen Einflüssen.

Diese Uhr habe ich den Super Lovers Floating Dial genannt, da das Zifferblatt und der Mechanismus von Glas umgeben sind, so dass Sie durch die Uhr von vorne nach hinten sehen können, wobei die einzige Verbindung mit dem Gehäuse der Schaft ist, der das Modul mit der Krone verbindet. Das rückseitige Glas in diesem Entwurf ist nicht vollständig klar, aber in rotem Glas und hat den Text Super Lovers All Stars um den Rand geschrieben. Ich denke, der Name All Stars könnte sich auf eine Reihe von Uhren beziehen, wie ich sie schon bei anderen Designs gesehen habe.

Die Zeit wird auf dem "schwebenden" 3-Zeiger angezeigt und wird von einem japanischen Quarzmodul angetrieben. Das Zifferblatt verfügt über das Super Lovers-Logo, das wie das Superman-Symbol ist, aber mit einem Herz anstelle des S. Das Band ist Metallgitter mit einer Schnalle und passt mit dem Metallgehäuse. Es gibt keine Informationen auf der Rückseite der Uhr, aber Sie können bis zum Quarzmodul sehen.

Ich weiß nicht genau, wann die Uhr veröffentlicht wurde, aber ich schätze, das war Ende der 90er oder Anfang 00, basierend auf dem Link zum Deadman Design.



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